22-Apr-06

My Family

I came from a middle class family in a small town called Kota Bharu. My family carries the title ‘Nik’ which describes our descendents. We are very proud of our heritage.

The title ‘Nik’ is inherited, therefore belonging to only a certain member of the society. When I was little, we would not respond, if our name is not added the title ‘Nik’. In those days title carries a lot of weight. People respects us because of our heritage. Unlike that of the present day title such as Tun, Tan Sri or Dato which is bestoyed by the Sultan based on their performance and obedience to the country, the title ‘Nik’ is based on individual birth rights. Those days family names denotes positions or rankings in society. Historically, the origin of ‘Nik’ depended on family heritage.

There are three categories of ‘Nik’ in Kelantan.

The first catogory is given to children born to a female royalty who had chosen to marry outside her royal circle (normally referred to as commoners). When this happen her children will not be eligible to carry the royal title, instead her children will become a ‘Nik’ instead of Tengku. I consider this as being downgraded one phase down.

The second category refers to adopted children of the Sultan or his consorts. In those days, namely in the early thirties and forties, it is quite common to adopt Chinese babies from China or Singapore. I have many relatives who had adopted Chinese babies and many friends who were adopted. My grandmother had one Chinese adopted son. His name was Taib. But I do not where he is now. We have lost touched with him since my grandmother died. He used to come to the house to visit my grandmother then.

These babies were brought in and sold through Singapore brokers. The Sultans and rulers adopted many Chinese babies this way. These babies enjoy many special privileges and were given the title ‘Nik’ to denotes their standing in society, being children of Sultans or their consorts.

The third category refers to descendants of Raja Loyor who ruled Jembal in Bachok District of Kelantan, in the 15th century. He had a daughter named Tuan Puteri Saadon who was later adopted by Che Siti Wan Kembang, the female Queen of Kelantan. Tuan Puteri Saadon, was known for her beauty that even the King Of Siam wanted to marry her.

I think I came from the first category. Historically, the name of the first Sultan of Kelantan was Nik Mohammad. So how else would I explained. But sometime I wonder why many of my relatives are so fair-skinned like the Chinese. I obviously did not fall into that second category because of my dark complexion.

Marrying within the family circle

In those days it is customary to marry within the family circle. Tengkus will marry Tengkus and Niks willl marry Niks. Marrying their own blood relatives such as cousins, second cousins or other distant relatives with the same title is greatly encouranged. In this way they do not lose the family ties or family names and I think least but not last is to ensure properties are kept within family members. In those days, family names is almost sacred and probably considered more important than love or happiness in a marriage.

Prior to gaining independent from the British in 1957, the Rulers or Sultans were very powerful. They have control over all state matters including land, marriages, religious and finances. Unlike today where ordinary people can vote their representatives and have a say in parliament. In those days, only the Sultan and his officials can make decisions and nobody can question him. The Sultan and his descendents own lands and properties all over the state. Ordinary people cannot afford to own land unless they are close to the Sultan or his representatives. Land ownership then was at the discretion of the Sultan.

The Japanese Occupation

When the Japanese soldiers landed in Kota Bharu on 8th.of December,1941, I was only two years old and I was only six when the Japanese surrendered back to the British in September 1945

I remember very little about the Japanese or their cruelties towards us. Maybe because I was too small to understand what was happening. I only knew that my uncle had to walk 25 miles from Pasir Puteh to Kota Bharu with some cash stacked in his shoes for his mother. When he arrived in Kota Bharu the money was shredded into pieces, not by the Japanese but by the heat of his own sweat. I also knew that my mother could sing Japanese songs.

Main pondok-pondok(play house)

When I was little, I used to play hide and seek all over the kampong. Boys and girls play together. I used to play marbles and high jumps with the boys. Sometimes the boys also join us to play ‘pondok-pondok’or play-house usually made from coconut leaves. My grandfather was very creative so he would build us a play-house and all of us would spend our time playing inside it. We cook our imaginary food and sometimes my mother would bring real food for us to eat inside our little hut. It was a lot of fun. I think that was one of the best times of our lives.


Growing up

Growing up in a small town like Kota Bharu, was quite memorable. Being very close to each other, our houses are not far from each another. I lived in Kampung Langgar which is very close to Kota Bharu town. There were very few outsiders staying in these three areas.

Some of my family members also run small businesses in the area. One of my uncle owned a row of shop houses which was rented to some Chinese migrants. I think he was responsible for the origin of Chinese immigrants in our kampong. He himself also operated a small bicycle shop. I would usually rent bicycles from him. He charged me ten cents per hour. After paying him, I would take the bicycle home and asked my grandfather to teach me to ride. My grandfather would usually hold the bicycle for me while I climbed onto it and then he will push it off from behind. As there were many banana trees in our compound, I usually ended up between the trees. I suffered many cuts and bruises before I learn to ride. But, the experience taught me never to give up easily. I had so much fun with my grandfather.

There was also another relative of mine, who operated a small grocery store near the road junction. He would sell everything from tit-bits to rice and sugar. His shop, however, remain small until he died. The shop died with him. My father also had a shop. He sells and repair watches.

Entertainment.

Cultural entertainment was another interesting episode which enriches my life. When I was a kid, there was this place called ‘The Biaritz Park’ operated by a Chinese man whom everybody called Towkay Ah Tee. The Kelantanese referred to it as ‘Dalam Show’or a show place which aptly described the place.

At this place, every form of entertainment was available. The air of festivities was the order of the day. Songs and dances, fun and games, cultural shows such as Mak Yong , Menora, Wayang kulit, Dikir Barat, Bangsawan were available almost every night. The entrance fee was only fifty cents and you can enjoy any of the shows.

As children, we were quite free to roam around the place by ourselves. As the place is only a walking distance from our house, we would usually go in batches of two three. Sometimes accompanied by adults but most of the time we were on our own. There was nothing to fear as there were many people there all the time. This place offers us opportunities to ‘lepak’or pass our time with our friends.

‘Biaritz Park’ also caters for adults to wind down, after a hard days work. I enjoyed watching the ‘Joget girls’ doing the ‘ronggeng’ with their partners. The girls were very beautiful. I particularly remembered one beautiful girl who was always on the dance floor doing the ronggeng with an old man. She later married a member of the Kelantan royal family. Another girl who was also beautiful and talented was Norma. She sings during the joget sessions. She later married with singer, Tan Sri S.M.Salim.and took the name of Norma Salim. She later died in a car crash.

Passion for Wayang Kulit

I frequent this place because I have a passion for wayang Kulit (shadow play). The show will continue nights after nights. It can sometimes last for three or four consecutive nights and I would faithfully be there as soon as the show started. My favorite Story was ‘Raja Serama dengan Sita Dewi’ which was equivalent to the Hindu epic Ramayana. It was a love story between a prince and princess and his rival Hanuman kera putih who tried to steal the princess from his palace.

My favorite character was however not that of Raja Serama or Sita Dewi (Hero and Heroin) but of the two clowns namely Wak Long and Pak Dogol. These two clowns will make their appearances during interludes but their witty remarks of the plots and funny looks made the show more interesting, lively and very entertaining.

The shadow play is performed by only one person who lend his voice to all the characters involved in the story. He is referred to as Tok Dalang. The play involves only one or two musical instruments namely gendang and serunai which will accompany the Tok Dalang to create different moods of the story.

The puppets used in the play was made from dried Buffalo skin. The main characters such as the hero and heroin had beautiful faces and colorful costumes. Other characters came in various forms and sizes depending on the role they played, but that of Wak Long and Pak Dogol was always topless and they are always in black with little white dot for their eyes. Wak Long is tall and lanky while Pak Dogol is short and ugly with protruding bulging stomach.

The stage

The stage is about twelve feet long and ten feet wide and built about five feet above the ground with a slightly slanting white screen protruding towards the audience. The puppets were stuck on banana trunks. A kerosene lamp light up the centre of the screen. The puppeteer sits in the middle and using his agile hands moved the puppets, weaving in and out as the character is brought to life by his voice and the beat of the drums and the flutes.

There was also a Bangsawan stage. It was an enclosed area with asbestos roof surrounded by wooden walls. The stage is about three or four feet above the ground with three of four layers of curtains which acts as backdrops for the stories. The actors and actress enters from either side of the stage. The hall can accommodate about one hundred to two hundred people. You have to buy tickets before you can enter this place. If you like you can also peep through holes and watch the show standing. I do not remember how much I paid, but I used to frequent this place too because they have many interesting plays that I enjoyed. It was like a present day theatre where live performance took place. The performers were usually ‘mported’from outside Kelantan. Here the shows were real people and they wear beautiful costumes. The story also run for many nights and I used to go to the show to enjoy stories like Selindang Delima, Bawang Puteh Bawang Merah, Panji Semerang and many more. Sometimes they also brought film stars like P.Ramlee,Siput Serawak,S.Romai Noor and Kasma Booty. They were the craze in those days. There were also dancers and circuses from China as special attractions..

Other popular entertainment in those days also include Main Puteri, Gasing, kite flying, Rebana kerching, Rebana besar, Tarik Selampit to name a few.


The Sultan’s birthday celebration

Once a year, during the Sultan’s birthday celebration which usually falls in January was another interesting nostalgic moments of my life. The celebration was one of the most waited by the people of Kelantan. Mention the word ‘january’ and everybody get excited and looked forward to it. The celebration usually run for three days and three nights.There were lots of fun and games to participate and all type of cultural performance for the people to enjoy. Special stages were put up in front of Istana Balai Besar and it was all for free.

During these festivities, people from all over the state come to Kota Bharu. They come by buses, trains and boats. There were not many cars then. Those staying nearby will walk to town in the morning or late afternoon and will walk back late at night. As my house was close to the main street, we will be kept awake all night, because they seem to come back all at once like herds of cattle. We can sense their happiness as they talked and giggled their way home.